Pizza is J.'s specialty. He made a particularly good batch of dough this week and we had two night's worth of astounding pizzas. They had a puffy, crackly, but tender crust that kind of exploded in the very hot oven (he cooks his pizzas on an oven rack lined with quarry tiles, then transfers them to the upper rack to finish). The top one, a white pizza, had feta cheese, frise lettuce, fresh basil and parsley, black olives, and onion seed on a crust brushed with olive oil: it looked like an embroidered wedding dress!
Anatomy of a perfect pizza-bubble.