On Sunday we visited friends at Lake Winnepesauke in New Hampshire - a beautiful, big lake still wild enough to harbor loons. It was the weekend, and the lake was noisy with jet-skis and motor boats, but in the cove where our friends were staying, shielded from the open water of the center by a large, white-pine encrusted island, we could sit peacefully on the dock most of the day, talking, taking pictures, and jumping in the water when we got too hot. for lunch we made a big salad of lettuce, cold corn cut from the cob, cucumbers, tomatoes, with a little bacon on the top, along with a plate of mixed garden tomatoes - red Brandywines, orange and red cherries, yellow pears, juicy First Ladies with basil and mozzarella. Summer.
At the end of the afternoon J. and I headed north, a five hour trip that took us through Franconia Notch in New Hampshire's White Mountains. We hadn't been there for a while - not since the Old Man, the state symbol, lost his face. But we know those mountains, having skied many of them, which gives a vivid memory and the ability to connect peaks and points that a valley-view or a map can never do. Cannon Mountain, that enormous hunk of granite at the northen end of the Notch, is the home of many of my happiest skiing memories as well as some of the knarliest terrain I ever managed to get down. J. and I were silent as we drove up through the pass, just holding hands in the car and taking in as much of the view as we could. When we passed Cannon and looked up at the tramway station on the top, he laughed and said, "I'll never forget being blown back through that door." I'll never forget the top of Cannon either, or the view across to Mt. Jefferson and the Presidential Range, so full of snow and ice you'd think it really would last all summer.
Rehearsing With Gods, Photographs and Essays on The Bread and Puppet Theater
We crossed into Vermont and immediately the terrain changed to curving hills and pastoral slopes dotted with dairy cows. We stopped in St. Johnsbury at a small, spotless Chinese restaurant connected to a gas station and ordered two quick stir-fries to go, and while we waited I went and stood out on the street, staring up past the yellow flat-roofed laundromat in one direction and the thrift store and sub shop in the other. St. J. has always struck me as a quintessential, mostly unchanged Vermont town - too far from the flatlands of Massachussetts and Connecticut to be altered into suburbia. It is also the gateway and last outpost for Vermont's wildest, least-settled region, the Northeast Kingdom. By then the moon had come up, huge and orange, and it hung over us as we drove past the tiny towns and long stretches of dark forest: home to rednecks and anarchists, religious quasi-cults, artists and puppeteers, Buddhists, old-style skiers, hardscrabble farmers. It will be a while before the people change there; the land may be a different story if nothing is done about the warming that has already gravely altered the precarious tourist/ski economy of the region. I felt my fondness for the Kingdom swelling as we drove in silence past Barnet and Glover, remembering a night like this, close to twenty years ago, at the Bread & Puppet Domestic Resurrection Circus here, when at the close of the pageant a huge puppet - a peasant earth-woman several stories high propelled by puppeteers with long sticks - slowly advanced from behind one of these hills just as the full moon rose, accompanied by a flock of life-size puppet sheep: a pastoral vision of redemption and hope after an hour of dramatized trauma, destruction and war.
No place on earth is far enough removed now to be isolated from reality; I'd like to think though that unspoiled places like this still help keep hope alive.